Since you
asked about the lacing for Jane Turner, I wanted to share the resources I found
when getting ready to work. Well,
whatever I asked my good friend Google to find when I first looked, I was
completely unable to replicate it. When
preparing to lace Lady Jane, I read a number of online answers to “what kind
of thread should I use?” and the most repeated answer was perle cotton.
THIS LINK
*might* be one of the sites I found before – at least the post mentions
(perhaps just implies?) using a single strand to do the side-to-side lacing and
a second single strand for top-to-bottom.
Anyway,
other than securing the corners, YES - Jane is laced to her mounting board (acid-free
foam core) with just TWO lengths of perle cotton.
While I've laced all the cross stitch pieces I've framed, I had not tried this single-strand method before. Noah is in a 16 by 20 frame (I think), and that's laced using dental floss with a fair number of starts and stops - probably ten to twelve of floss each time.
Anyway, back to Jane. Starting in
the center of the longer dimension is what I normally do. Pull a yard or two of perle cotton
from the ball and thread your needle onto the end. Do not cut the perle cotton and do not anchor
it into your fabric. Go back and forth
(er … side to side) several times – three or four stitches – and then very
gentle pull more thread through each stitch you’ve taken so that you again have
a length of thread to work with. Take
three or four more stitches and again work the thread through all the
stitches you’ve made. After you’ve used
up what you’ve pulled loose from the ball of perle cotton, unwind several more
lengths.
Yes, this is
EXTREMELY tedious!!
When working
on Jane, I would do three or four “pulls” at a time from the ball of perle
cotton, and then work that through all stitches taken till I got to the place
where the needle was. To be more
specific about what I mean by a pull, I would hold the perle cotton ball down
on the work surface with one hand and pull a length out with the other hand
until my arm was fully extended. So for
me, a pull is a bit more than one yard.
Oh yeah,
since you start in the middle of the side, it’s a really good idea to try to
keep count of the “pulls” you take from the ball. Once you get to the end you’ve been working
toward, make sure you have a foot or two extra thread at the end, then remove
your needle from the thread. Now comes
the really fun part.
Since you’ve
been keeping count of the number of pulls you’ve taken from the ball
of perle cotton, you know how much thread to pull off the ball to lace the
other half of your piece of needlework. This will likely convince you that I am completely nuts: make the same number of pulls from the ball
of perle cotton as you used to lace up half of the side of your stitched piece,
being very careful about how you lay this down on whatever you’re using for a
work surface – you really don’t want this to get tangled up. Add a few more pulls as a safety margin, then
cut the thread and thread your needle.
At this
point, you go back to taking three or four stitches from side to side and then
working your thread through. Since there
was an enormous, piled-up bunch of thread, I’m pretty sure I did three or four
stitches, worked just a couple of yards of thread through, then took three or
four more stitches. The huge pile of
thread tangled up twice and I very carefully picked out the knots both times –
with this much effort invested, I was determined it would be a single length of
thread!
Tedious.
Have I said
tedious?
I probably
should have started out by saying the pins holding Jane to the mounting board
remain in place while lacing. I kept a
towel folded over the pins as much as possible so as not to snag the thread.
After
reaching the other end and finally
cutting that thread, it’s a good idea to turn your needlework over to make sure
it looks the way you want it to. If it’s
not perfect, you can still make small adjustments at this point by removing
pins and scooching the ground fabric one way or the other, then repining. When it’s just right, it’s time to tighten up
the lacing, once again starting in the center and working to each end. When the entire side was snug, I anchored the
thread.
I followed
the same process to do the lacing top to bottom.
Various online references I found said mitering the corners is not
necessary, but I’ve always done that, so Jane’s corners are mitered and
stitched down.
This was undoubtedly way more detail than anyone was looking for…
If you’ve made it to the end, thanks for staying with me!
>^..^<
She is certainly well worth the tedium of this perfect lacing. Whenever I attempted this method, I never knew how to judge strands and had lots of knots. And a headache.
ReplyDeleteGreat info!
ReplyDeleteThanks for posting.
You did a great job on Jane.
Marilyn
Thanks for the detailed explanation on your lacing of Jane. It was really very helpful. Enjoy your weekend!
ReplyDeleteOh my, that requires A LOT of patience! I haven't framed anything myself that big that needed to be laced (yet), but thank you for sharing how to do it.
ReplyDeleteI suppose the tediousness would chase away a lot of people! But it turns out so much nicer this way. I've laced a few projects, one small and one medium... takes time but no staining glue involved! :)
ReplyDeleteSo interesting! So a question: you take the pins out once the lacing is done, yes? So why is lacing better than just using pins?? I'm pretty sure the guy who did my framing just used pins. Just curious -- I've always wondered.
ReplyDeleteReally helpful explanation, Deb! I've only laced small pieces and usually just pin my larger ones. I bet the lacing helps them maintain their shape much better!
ReplyDeleteThanks for the explanation and photos. You have convinced me that my framer is worth every penny I pay her!
ReplyDelete